Leather stitching by hand. How to process and connect leather parts

2015-09-17 Maria Novikova

The choice of skins for a leather jacket

Before you start sewing a jacket made of genuine leather, you need to decide on the choice of material. There are a lot of varieties of leather, it all depends on the dressing - processing. Modern technologies allow to obtain natural leather of high quality, elastic and various colors. In my case, these are goat skins, they are very soft and thin in thickness.
After choosing the skins, you should decide on their number. To do this, you need to prepare a pattern in advance, taking into account the style, all the decorative details and the size of the figure. Then make the layout of the pattern (in the store) on the skins. So you will understand how much bottom material it will take to make a jacket. Do not forget also about the lower details: lining, lower collar, facings, etc.

Open jackets

After acquiring the material, we proceed to cutting the jacket. Before cutting, circle the areas of holes, non-painting, marriage, etc. with chalk. If the skins are in limited quantities, then the places with the least expressive defects can be used for the lower parts where they are not noticeable. Cut out the details of the pattern, on the skins in the longitudinal direction, along the ridge. In this place, the skins are less extensible than in the transverse direction. It is better to circle the patterns with chalk or a special pencil for the skin. The pen leaves marks on the front side. Cut should be from the front side, so defects on the skins are immediately visible and you can get around them.
The strongest part of the skin is the area along the ridge, so try to cut out the parts that are most stressed in these places. The ventral region of the skin, i.e. on the sides, more delicate, it can be used for small finishing details and in places where the load is less great. If you have a large amount of material, then this area can be excluded altogether.

Preparation for I-fitting

After all the details are cut out, it is necessary to try on. Some sources write that before cutting, it is worth making a model of the product from a simple fabric and only then transfer the finished template to the material. This is done for high-quality tailoring, since it is impossible to sweep the skin, punctures from the needle remain on it. Therefore, all changes are made to the layout and, according to the finished details, a product is cut out, which is sewn immediately under the machine. But if you are confident in your experience and the accuracy of the pattern, then making a layout can be avoided. In addition, there are skins that are very soft and thin, on which needle punctures do not remain at all. Test this on a small piece of paper beforehand.

You can prepare the product for fitting without sweeping away the details, for example, connect it with a stapler, adhesive tape or a special sticky pencil for the skin, which does not leave marks.

How to properly try on a product, read on.

After trying on, the seams are ground using a Teflon foot; a regular foot does not fit; it does not slip on the skin.
Then the seams are ironed or ironed, depending on the model, and the allowances are fixed with glue. Glue for such cases is only suitable for skin, other adhesives coarsen the seams when dried. Glue, if necessary, can be easily removed with acetone. To reduce the thickness of the seam, the seams are carefully split with a hammer.
If you need to lay finishing stitches along the seams, also use a Teflon foot. Choose threads and needles according to the type of leather, as well as the processing and model of the product. Finishing stitch width is recommended from 4.0 mm., it depends on the model and your wishes. Machine fasteners are not placed on the skin so that the stitching does not unravel, cut the threads, leaving 0.5 cm and burn the ends.

The main feature of leather jackets is the many decorative finishes, such as small details, curly seams, metal studs and zippers. Genuine leather can be combined with various fabrics: knitwear, guipure, chiffon, drape, etc.

How to iron natural leather?

Genuine leather is ironed very carefully at low temperatures without steam through a dry iron, both from the front and from the wrong side. Excessive moisture and heat will lead to deformation of the skin. On a separate flap, check the skin for susceptibility to heat treatment.

After finishing work, all chalk lines are easily removed with a damp cloth, and the appearance is given with a can of paint for the skin.
When cutting a men's leather jacket, you need to take into account the activity in the shoulder girdle. Therefore, increases in the chest and back width are made larger than in the waist and hips. Also, the amount of increase depends on the thickness of the lining and clothing that is worn under the jacket.
Lining for leather jackets, choose from natural fabrics or containing natural fibers. Since synthetics do not allow air to pass through, which increases sweating.
Genuine leather should be sewn on a production machine, in household machines the motor is weak, it will lead to breakage or poor-quality tailoring of the product.
As a cushioning, adhesive material, you can use flesilin or knitted adhesive.
Additional slip on the skin will give, lubrication of the line section with vegetable oil.

For more information about the properties of genuine leather, see the video:

P.S. Questions?! Wishes?!

Write below! 🙂

With friendly greetings, Maria Novikova

Stop being a gray mouse, join the ranks of fashionable and stylish! Don't know how? I will help you!
Right now, place an order for a personal pattern or a consultation on tailoring and cutting clothes. Including consultation on the choice of fabric, style and own image.

My . I'm on Twitter. Look on Youtube.

I would be grateful if you use the buttons:

How to sew from genuine leather - we will try to answer this question in detail in this master class. There are a few simple rules when working with genuine leather.

We will tell and show in detailed photos how to perform a basic seam on a sewing machine, process allowances and fasten threads, as well as how to perform a simple seam by hand.

How to sew from genuine leather: the necessary tools and equipment

How to sew from genuine leather with your own hands? In addition to the material itself, you will need a certain number of mandatory tools.

For cutting and working with seam allowances, you should purchase a knife, hammer and glue. The basic option for beginners is quite possible to buy in a building supermarket, and a more professional tool is presented in sewing accessories stores or accessories for sewing shoes.

Knife should be sharp and comfortable.

Hammer you should choose a small one, with a wooden or rubber head, it is designed for tapping allowances.

There is a professional glue for those who work with leather goods, it is often sold in large packaging and it does not make sense to buy it for one or two projects. Choose a clear, waterproof polyurethane adhesive. Make sure leather is on the list of materials for which it is intended.

For pre-fixing some parts, you can use double sided tape. Special adhesive tape for leather is available in the hardware department, but it is quite expensive. You can use ordinary stationery double-sided tape, but only where the machine line will be laid later.

It is also desirable to have rubber mat on which it is convenient to cut the skin. Also useful scissors and small pliers.

How to sew genuine leather on a sewing machine? Ideally, you should have a machine for working with heavy fabrics and industrial type leather. However, it is possible to sew simple models from genuine leather of medium density on a conventional machine.

You will need for this special plastic foot and machine skin needles, which have a special spatula-shaped tip. You also need to purchase threads for leather, durable and slippery. The combination of these three components will allow you to sew genuine leather on a household sewing machine.

Let's say a few words about the purchase of material. sold in different sizes of skins, which are measured in dm2. The price is indicated for 1 dm2 and then the total cost of a particular skin is calculated. Very often on natural leather there are various defects: scratches, holes, defects in color and texture. In order to buy the right amount of material, take all the necessary patterns to the store and lay them on the skin, avoiding problem areas.

So, let's learn how to sew with genuine leather!

Cutting Basics

Carefully inspect the entire piece of skin in good daylight from different angles. With a small number of defects, mark them from the wrong side, if there are a lot of problem areas, make marks and lay out the pattern on the front side.

Cut out the main details as close as possible to the central part of the skin. The edges of natural leather are thinner and may stretch a little. They can be used for small decorative details: valves, belt loops, cuffs, etc.

If you are sewing from natural suede, please note that suede has a pronounced pile direction and details cut in different directions will differ from each other.

If thin skin is wrinkled, you can try ironing it from the wrong side through a slightly damp cloth. Be sure to try it first on a small unnecessary piece!

Simple seam and seam allowances

Remember that unlike fabric, all traces of a needle or pins on genuine leather remain forever!

Fold the pieces right sides in and match the edges. For additional fixation, you can use stationery clips or clothespins. Set the stitch length to 3.5-4mm. Sew to desired length. On both sides, leave the ends of the threads at least 3 cm long.

Pull the threads to one side and tie a double knot at the beginning and end of the seam.

Apply glue to both allowances, including the knots.

Expand the allowances and press to the base. Tap with a hammer each allowance and the seam itself.

Pull the threads inside out and tie a double knot. Put glue on the knot and cut off the tails of the threads.

How to thread ends

When working with genuine leather, it often becomes necessary to fix the threads in a place where both the front and back sides are in the public domain.

Thread both threads into a regular thin needle and stick it into the stitch hole next to the knot. Bring the needle out after 2-3 stitches.

Use pliers and a thimble to pull out the needle.

Pull firmly on the tails of the threads so that the knot goes inside the stitch, into the hole in the stitch.

Cut off excess threads with scissors.

Hand seam

Sometimes while sewing, the bobbin thread ends, and the machine still has time to make a few stitches. It happens that the machine cannot cope with the thickness of the leather part and you can only make a series of punctures with a needle. In all such cases, you will need to hand-sew the seam over the finished punctures.

Insert the bobbin thread into the needle. Insert the needle into the nearest free hole.

Bring the needle to the right side and prick again into the same hole, forming a loop around the upper thread.

Pull out the needle and pull both threads at the same time, evenly tightening the stitch. Continue to the end of the seam.

Leather is a practical natural material. It is suitable for making shoes, clothes, and accessories. However, compared to fabrics, the range of leather products is not as large. It is not always possible to choose the model you like exactly in size.

Not everyone is ready to remake it for themselves. It's not a fabric. How to flash the skin, not everyone knows. But, as it turns out, everything is not so difficult. If you know what tools are needed, then even without sufficient experience you can get to work.

Material Features

Leather, depending on the purpose, is of different thickness, dressing and quality. If it is dyed, then it should not get your hands dirty. On the cut, its entire thickness should be of the same color without a white stripe in the middle.

A layer of skin is not a rolled material, it is a skinned animal. It tends to stretch, depending on the direction of the applied force. At the withers, it is more rigid, from the sides - supple.

The skin is divided into varieties: shoe, clothing, haberdashery. There are several more varieties of it: lining, velor, suede, with a polished front surface, with fur. Techniques for working with all these materials have their own characteristics.

The common point is that the cut parts are not swept away with threads. Sewing needle and remove them from the skin is impossible. Therefore, it is worth carefully considering every detail, the order of work, and only then get down to business.

Tool

A sewing needle for handmade leather should have a wedge-shaped point, most often with three edges. It can be of different lengths and thicknesses, with an eyelet suitable for the cross section of the thread. In hard-to-reach places, a curved needle can be used.

The awl is used with a comfortable handle, the point must repeat the cross section of the needle and can be either trihedral or diamond-shaped. When punctured, the skin fibers should not be torn; for this, the sharpening of the edges should be constantly monitored. Threads choose strong, synthetic or waxed linen.

For marking punctures, it is convenient to use a copy roller. Its gear wheel leaves a distinct dotted mark when pressed. In the marked places, you can sew with different frequencies: in each mark, after one, two, three - depending on the need.

Leather sewing needles can injure your fingers. If you develop the habit of working with a thimble, you can greatly facilitate the work and protect your hands from punctures.

In the sewing process, scissors, a shoe or plastic or wooden base, a metal ruler, punches, and a small hammer will come in handy.

Without preliminary marking, you should not start working if there is a goal to achieve an even and neat seam. A copy roller is best, but a notched ruler can also be used.

An easier sewing method involves pre-punching stitch holes. The option is more complicated when, before each puncture of the needle for the skin, the hole is first marked with an awl.

This method requires practice, it will not work right away to achieve uniform thread tension and an even seam. But after the holes made by the punch, you can not be afraid of distortions, the main thing is to monitor the uniform tension and not stray from the order of threading.

How to sew leather so that there are no gaps in adjacent holes? Do not part, from this the strength of the seam can only suffer. But an excessively long stitch will not give sufficient bond strength.

Hand stitches

How to flash the skin with the most durable connection of the parts of the material? The strongest seam is the saddle stitch, they were used to sew saddles and harness. It is performed with one thread at the same time with two needles alternately towards each other from different sides.

Moccasin seam is good for both joining and finishing. The needle is drawn away from itself, a stitch is made to the right on the reverse side and returns to itself. Then the thread is thrown over the edge and wound into the first hole towards itself and inserted into the second with the formation of a stitch from the front side. Then the process is repeated. If desired, everything can be repeated in the opposite direction from the end of the seam. In this case, the binding will turn out in the form of cross threads.

How to sew leather with fur? To do this, use a furrier seam from right to left. After laying the fur, the needle is drawn away from itself, the thread is thrown back over the edge and a second puncture is made into the same hole. After that, everything is repeated with the second stitch.

In the manufacture of caskets, cases or suitcases, where joints at an angle of 90 ° are used, a “mustache” seam is used. The edges of the parts to be sewn are pre-cut at 45 °.

Mastery Secrets

Rubber glue can be used to pre-join the two parts. After trimming flush with the edges of the material, before knurling with a roller, make an engraver on both sides of the groove. This will make the seam look more professional and keep the thread from fraying. To determine how much to retreat from the edge of the material to the puncture, the thickness of the parts of the material being stitched is summed up.

Leather needles with a saddle stitch with ready-made holes after the punch will not catch threads if their ends are blunted. This seam will be neat if you keep the order. In this case, the thread with the needle on top is carried out first. At the end of the work, you can roll the connection with a marking roller - all irregularities will be smoothed out.

Starting and ending the firmware, you need to fasten the seam with stitches up to 3-4 times in the opposite direction. By melting and pressing the short cut edges of the threads to the skin, they can be “tightly” fixed from blooming.

The main problem is that the material is not pulled under the presser foot. Releasing the spring tension does not help. Some get out of the situation by lubricating the surface of the skin with soap, shampoo, petroleum jelly, and even machine or vegetable oil.

Others put strips of paper, tracing paper and thick film under the foot, and then remove it. You can try sticking a piece of double-sided tape to the very sole of the foot, if this is a one-time need.

Another problem is that the upper part of the skin stretches when sewing, while the lower one, on the contrary, "sits down". In this case, it is better to fix the layers with glue or use paper clips.

An ordinary needle can only “take” a soft one. With different thickness and density of the material, the seam can lead to the side. For rough and thick material, it is definitely necessary to use only special needles for leather.

It is best to have professional sewing equipment for such cases. But if only a household sewing machine is at hand, how to sew leather in this case?

What to sew?

In order not to spoil the material, it is better to immediately acquire a special needle for the skin. Its sharpening and the shape of the tip make it easy to pierce even very rough material. Depending on the needle, threads for machine sewing are selected. They must be strong and flexible. It makes no sense to use ordinary twisted threads for handmade in a sewing machine, they will not work.

How to flash leather at home without professional equipment? For serious work, it is better to replace the regular presser foot with a special Teflon-coated one designed for working with leather. It should be kept away from idle sewing without material, as the lower teeth of the feed mechanism may scratch the smooth surface.

An even better option is to purchase a professional version of the foot with a roller. Such a clamp does not slow down the skin during feeding, but, on the contrary, advances it, working as an additional upper conveyor. Not all presser feet are suitable for any machine, so you should pay attention to the mechanism for attaching it to the stem.

Mastery Secrets

On a household machine with an electric drive without experience, sewing leather should be done with extreme caution, you can not only break the needle, but also disable the mechanism. If there is a choice, then for these purposes it is better to use old and proven equipment with a manual drive.

The maximum possible skin thickness is up to 1.5 mm. Soft skin up to 1 mm can be stitched with a regular needle No. 80-90. If skipped seams occur, or the foot rises when the needle is withdrawn, it is better not to waste time and effort, but to look for special needles for the skin.

It is better to set the stitch length above the average, as frequent punctures weaken the material. it will be easier to sew if it is slightly moistened. Thick places are beaten with a hammer until even.

It is not worth fixing the seam with the reverse stroke of the machine, it will not hold. It is better to tie the ends of the threads by hand and scorch with fire. The seam allowances on the reverse side are leveled, beaten off with a hammer and glued.

Sewing needle classification

There are two numbering systems (sizes): European and American. To facilitate perception, manufacturers mark the numbers of sewing needles in two versions at once through a fraction sign (60/8). According to the European system in the range of 60-120, according to the American - 8-21. The smaller the value, the smaller the needle diameter. Number 60 corresponds to a thickness of 0.6 mm, and 100, respectively, to 1 mm.

With the same marking, sewing needles for leather from different manufacturers may differ in appearance. They are marked with the letters LT and can also be used when sewing varnished fabrics. For this material, manufacturers produce needles with numbers in the range 90/14 - 110/18.

Despite the fact that working with leather requires knowledge of many technological features of the sewing process and is considered a rather difficult task, with due care and patience, experience will appear over time, and everything will work out!

Genuine leather products have always been valued very expensively, since their service life is practically unlimited. But not every material can be flashed on a typewriter, and it is not always convenient to use it. Therefore, many craftsmen sew only by hand and the quality of their work remains at its best, and the price significantly exceeds the cost of machine-made products.

We sew from genuine leather with our own hands

You will need special tools - an awl, a punch and a hammer.

There is also a special tool for pricking, or as it is also called a “fork”:

you need to extrude a line on the material being processed, which will take on the role of a guide when making holes. It can also be applied with a compass;
now, using a punch and a hammer, make holes in the workpiece;
pre-place a piece of thick rubber under it;
if you worked with a pricking fork, you will have to additionally open the holes with an awl for stitching;
once the material is placed in the clip, you can start stitching.

What kind of thread should be sewn on leather? When performing a saddle stitch, arm yourself with linen threads. Before use, they are recommended to be waxed so that they repel dirt and easily pass through holes in the material.

What needle should be used to sew leather? You will need a strong, blunt-pointed saddlery needle. Ear size also matters. For example, for making shoes, a needle with a fourth eye size is suitable. Pulling the short end of the thread, it should be twisted into a loop. This is necessary so that the thread does not jump off the needle. Now get to work by choosing a seam "forward needle".

You can sew two parts with two needles at the same time. In this case, one of the needles must be inserted into the extreme hole and dragged through. Pass the second through the second hole and pull it down. Now it needs to be inserted into the hole on the other side a little higher than the first and dragged, pointing the pointed tip up.

Both needles are then inserted into the next hole and pulled through.

How to hand sew leather? You can join the parts with a seam over the edge. With this method, it can be quite difficult to fix them in the clamp, so experienced workers give advice to glue the parts with PVA glue. If, after reaching the end, you make two or three stitches with a needle, moving backwards, you will not have to make knots. It is enough to cut the thread at the very surface.

When working with kapron threads, the tails can be melted and then they definitely will not bloom. We sew a bag made of genuine leather: using this method, you can sew not only shoes, but also a bag that will serve you for more than one year.

How to crochet leather

If you don't have a needle handy, you can learn how to sew with an awl. That is, use it not only for making holes in the material, but also for pushing the thread. Although this is not the best solution, since the thread is easily damaged.

Therefore, the best alternative to a needle is a crochet hook:

hold the prepared overcast in one hand, and the awl in the other;
make a hole on the outside of the workpiece and insert a hook into it: hook the loop of the thread folded in half and pull it to the outside of the product;
after disconnecting the hook, gently pull one end of the thread so that one part of it is from the outer edge of the outsole, and the other from the inner;
make another puncture with a metal tool at the distance you need;
insert the hook into the resulting hole again and hook the loop of the thread on the inside;
pull it so that the tip of this loop rises 10 mm above the outer side of the product;
release the hook, and stretch the tip of the fiber you received earlier into the loop formed;
it remains to tighten the stitch by pulling the thread from the inside;
at the end of the work, as soon as the first stitch you made touches the last one, take 3-4 steps in the opposite direction, and do not thread the new holes, but those that you already have.

Working on a typewriter

How to sew genuine leather on a typewriter? On ordinary household sewing equipment, it is quite possible to sew such material, but not too thick. Of course, she will not be able to process the belt, but she will be able to take the skin, with a thickness of 1 to 1.5 mm. But for this she needs to create certain conditions.

What is needed in this case:

a special needle for the skin, the tip of which has a non-circular section. The end of such a needle has sharp edges that do not push apart the fibers of the material, but cut through them;
if the stitch formation does not occur, you can set the needle thicker and not all the way. But even these measures may not be enough, and if we sew a skirt from genuine leather, then most likely we will have to look for thinner material;
if the upper thread does not tighten, you can try to change the threads and take not flax, but nylon;
if the conveyor does not cope well with the advancement of the material, it is necessary to purchase a special Teflon, roller or fluoroplastic foot. Some try to get out of the situation and sprinkle the pattern with talcum powder, oil it, or simply help it move with their hands. You can try all these methods, and as an option, it is recommended to sew over tracing paper, but this is not very convenient.

Rules for sewing products made of genuine leather

It is very important to properly sew leather, especially suede. If you do not take into account the direction of the pile, the cut parts will vary in color. You need to iron the surface only from the wrong side, and the iron should not be very hot and emit steam. Do not forget to enclose a regular cotton fabric. Remember that when working on a typewriter, the seam is not fixed in reverse, which means that you will have to fix the ends of the threads with several knots.

In order to work with leather, not only a sewing machine for sewing leather is required, but also special needles, threads, glue, adhesive materials. You need to use many tools designed specifically for working with genuine leather.

The technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine is different from sewing fabrics. And first of all, the fact that sewing leather requires a special foot and special sewing needles. The main technological feature of the connection of leather parts is that the allowances of the stitched seams are not ironed out, but glued.

Many who are fond of tailoring often have to work with leather. Handmade bags, finishing elements of clothing details, jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish.
There are many books on learning the technique of sewing leather products, lessons and master classes. We offer only a few basic simple recommendations on the technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine with your own hands.

The thickness of the skin depends on the type of raw material used for the production of leather and the technology of leather dressing. For each product it is necessary to choose a certain type of leather. For example, leather for sewing gloves (like leather) is suitable for jewelry. It is soft, elastic and able to convey the most subtle nuance of small details of products.
It is better to sew bags from tougher leather, more rough dressing. If soft leather is used for sewing a bag, then it is imperative to use duplicate pads made of dense material to shape the bag.
If you are going to sew a fur vest with leather inserts and finishing elements, then use dense but soft leather. Rigid, rough skin will "pull up", and too thin can tear at the junctions.

2. How to sew leather on a sewing machine

Leather work quite a difficult task, because you need to know a lot of technological features. Know how to use a variety of tools and equipment. For example, when cutting out paired parts, it must be taken into account that the skin stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, so it is desirable to cut the product parts in one direction.
It is impossible to chip the skin with pins, it is also not recommended to sweep with threads. Needle punctures will leave marks that cannot be removed.
Soft, thin leather can be sewn on a sewing machine with a regular needle (for fabrics) No. 80 or No. 90.

For sewing thicker and rougher leather, special sewing needles with a tip shape in the form of a two-sided or four-sided blade are used. This shape of the needle blade makes it easier to pierce rough leather, leaves a less noticeable mark and prevents gaps in the stitch or thread breakage.
The stitch length on the sewing machine should be set almost to the maximum, because in places where the needle is often punctured, the skin can be torn.

3. Not every sewing machine can sew leather

To replace a zipper in a leather jacket, it is imperative to have an industrial sewing machine capable of sewing leather. Otherwise, you can break not only the needle, but the machine itself.
Before sewing leather on a sewing machine, be sure to read its instructions. If it doesn't say that you can sew leather on it, then don't even try. But you should not despair, remember your grandmother. She probably has an old Podolsk or Singer sewing machine with foot or hand drive. This machine will definitely not break, and will confidently sew leather. At least she won't feel sorry for her. Of course, the replacement of lightning will not be done very well, one might say in a handicraft way. But if you try hard, then the new zipper in the jacket will even look decent.

4. You need to cut the skin with a special shoe knife

After finishing work with the skin, the appearance of the product can be refreshed. Marking lines left during work are removed with soap and water or ammonia. To restore the leather surface to its former shine, then wipe this area with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily contaminated areas on the skin can be washed with warm unboiled milk, wiped with whipped protein or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and beaten egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth soaked in glycerin, or cleaned with a swab soaked in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (remaining sawdust is brushed off), or with an ink eraser, as well as fine-grained abrasive paper.
Stains from household grease are removed with gasoline or talc and a solution of oxalic acid.

9. Dyeing clothes made of genuine leather

The technology for painting leather with an aerosol can is quite simple. Aerosolized leather paint is sprayed by holding the can about 20 cm away from the area of the leather product. To ensure that the paint layer lays down evenly, without streaks, do not hold the can for too long in one area. Smoothly and constantly move it along the surface to be painted.
After a ten-minute break, the next coat of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires a uniform color throughout the area. However, it should be noted that this method of painting the skin is intended only for partial "refreshment" of its surface. It is not recommended to use aerosolized leather paint for "cardinal" repainting of leather clothing.

When installing accessories on leather clothes, there are always difficulties. Buttons and blocks bend, buttons do not hold, etc. To help you correctly install buttons, blocks on clothes with your own hands, we have prepared an article with the recommendations of the master.

How to make a belt with your own hands. How to make a hole in a belt, fasten a buckle and what tools are needed to work with leather.

Working with leather always comes with many challenges, even if you have the right sewing machine and tools. In order to facilitate some of the operations when working with leather, we offer you a few professional tricks.

Not every craftsman can replace a zipper in a leather jacket, even in an atelier. In addition to a special machine for sewing leather, you need to know the technology of working with leather, have special tools and devices. But, if the jacket costs less than the cost of repairing it, then you can try to replace the zipper with your own hands. For some tips on how to properly sew leather, you can find in this article.

Tailoring of leather and tailoring of fur is a special kind of sewing work. If a sewing industrial machine of type 22 class is used for working with leather, then sewing machines are not used for working with fur. There is a special furrier machine for this.

Working with natural leather involves the use of special needles, a foot with a roller instead of a sole and, of course, a special sewing machine capable of making high-quality stitches without gaps and thread breaks. To properly sew leather with your own hands, you also need to know what type of thread is used to sew leather.

Many special tools are used to work with leather. This is not only a shoe knife, but also a special hammer for softening seams, a punch for installing accessories, a special awl for sewing leather by hand, etc.

Adhesive fabrics are needed to stiffen certain parts and areas of clothing. However, cool fabrics and materials are used when working with genuine leather. Adhesive-glued leather jacket bands will not stretch when zippered. You can also put adhesive fabric in the cuff, collar.