Norwegian national costume for women. National clothes in Norway BUNAD
The traditional national dress of the Norwegians is called "bunad". There are several forms of its cut and countless colors. The latter is typical mainly for women's costume. For many centuries, the Norwegian costume has been influenced by the pan-European urban costume, therefore, in our time, Norwegians put on a bunad only on big holidays, weddings, and festivities.
Descriptions of the national costume are preserved in the Scandinavian sagas and in ancient images of the inhabitants of Northern Europe. It follows from them that narrow long trousers, short jackets, and cloaks with a hood are characteristic of the Old Norse costume. At present, two forms of cut are noticeable in the men's bunad. The men's national costume of the western regions of Norway consists of narrow long trousers, which at the top reach almost to the chest and are held by shoulders. Clothing is complemented by a vest, stitched with ornaments and trimmed with buttons on the chest. For the eastern regions of the country, a jacket or vest, short pants, usually just below the knees, are more typical. Jackets and pants are decorated with buttons arranged in rows. The costume is complemented by traditional golfs, which have a geometric pattern and are knitted from thick wool. In both districts, a white shirt with wide sleeves and narrow cuffs, black trousers, black raincoats, leather shoes with buckles and, of course, a hat or top hat are put on for the costume.
The folk costume is complemented by decorative details: magnificent embroideries on vests, aprons, jackets, bright belts and multi-colored trims along the edge of the hem of the skirt. This led to the fact that almost every region of the country was characterized by a variety of women's costumes.
Women's Norwegian national costume is also represented by two forms of cut (Fig. 7). In most of the country, it consists of a blouse and a skirt, only in the western regions are blouses worn with sundresses. This is the basis of the women's costume. In some areas, an apron, vest or jacket is added to it. Traditionally, costumes are made of woolen fabric. On cold days, scarves, capes, raincoats, multi-layered skirts are used. Men's suits also have bright colors, but they are not embroidered to the same extent as women's ones. In Norway, each specific area (fulke) presents its own distinctive national costume.
Although at the household level in our time a modern pan-European version of the urban costume is used, there is one folk tradition that the Norwegians have remained true to this day. The famous warm Norwegian sweaters knitted from thick yarn and decorated with national ornaments are especially popular here. They are very beautiful, reliable (warm in the coldest weather), take up little space. Products made of 100% wool are covered with special northern patterns: deer and elk, snowflakes and frost, geometric patterns can be seen on them, which makes them recognizable all over the world.
Norway... An amazing northern country with beautiful nature, the cleanest ecology, the highest standard of living, with carefully preserved traditions. The Norwegians also consider their folk costume BUNAD to be a national treasure. It is worn on the National Day of Norway - May 17, for weddings, confirmations, christenings, folklore e celebrations, i.e. it has become almost universal.
True, the Norwegians themselves are still debating what is bunad and how does it differ from national costume.
Some claim that bunad- this is the common name for many national costumes worn in different regions of Norway, and, in addition, it is also the name of festive clothes reconstructed in the 20th century in the national style.
Other researchers believe that bunad is a festive dress in the national style, which existed from time immemorial, which is worn on exceptionally solemn occasions. Binard, they argue, is different from "fake" folk costumes for solemn occasions, which were "designed" in imitation of real folk costumes. Such "reconstructions" are often referred to as "Festive attire" - festdrakt / festdrakt / In bunad stores, they are sold exactly as festdrakt, and not as bunad.
And, finally, some folklorists believe that the bunad is different from the national costume, since under national costume should be understood everyday clothes, a bunad - festive clothes.
One can argue with each point of view, especially since the very word " bunad» came from the ancient northern búnaðr - "clothing for the home"- and gives each side the opportunity to argue that she is right. Everyone is right, however, that BUNAD and FESTDRAK T are stunningly beautiful and uniquely original, and Norwegians wear them with dignity!
WOMEN'S CLOTHING are:
Embroidered blouse, vest, jacket, skirt, petticoats.
Stockings (special, also sometimes embroidered!!!),
Purse with a silver lock
Shawl, mittens for winter.
Handmade jewelry made of silver or less often gold: special fasteners, buttons, brooches, which are called sølje, earrings, cufflinks (for women), earrings, rings, belts.
Special shoes.
The "find" of the last couple of years - special umbrellas for bunad made of wool, decorated with hand embroidery and a special silver nameplate on the handle!
MEN'S SUIT consists of trousers below the knee, a linen shirt, a thick vest with several rows of buttons and an outer jacket. Knee-length wool socks are also required. The men's suit is not as heavily embroidered as the women's, but often comes in very bright colors, red and yellow or black and red. Many wear a wide-brimmed hat or a bowler hat. Men's suits in modern Norway are now more and more in demand.
Almost every village and city has its own type of bunad. Everyone has their own “past” and their own “traditions”. Very often, a bunad from the same area can be made in different colors. Sometimes in one village there are several types of national costume.
The bride's bunads are especially beautiful, because they are "attached" with a wedding crown.
Nowadays, more and more often, the customs of ancient weddings with crowns began to return, which is not surprising: any girl can dream of such a dress and such jewelry!
During the ceremony of baptism and confirmation / joining the church / national costumes for children are also purchased.
Most of the national costumes have been preserved in a more or less original form, and only a small part was reconstructed at the beginning of the 20th century based on historical sources.
Based on materials taken here: http://newwoman.ru/zamuzh122b.html
Original post here: http://www.liveinternet.ru/users/natali_soler/post179162880/
I'm going to Finland, and the story will be about Norway. It happens:)
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The Quelle online store decided to conduct a study and tell its readers about the culture of dresses, national costumes from around the world. Perhaps you have long dreamed of dressing in Indian, Scottish styles, but something has always stopped you. Today we will talk about Norway.
Norway is located in the western part of the Scandinavian Peninsula. It is not for nothing that the ancient Scandinavians called these lands “the way to the north”, because the location of the country and the climate that reigns here fully and completely correspond to this phrase. In addition, the entire terrain of Norway is covered with mountains and fjords. Of course, nature cannot but influence the mentality of the people, fashion and much more.
The national costume of Norway is known all over the world and is proudly called "bunad". How did he enter the culture of the northern people? The Industrial Revolution, which took place at the end of the nineteenth century, significantly affected the market, as a result of which cheap fabric went on sale, from which people could sew traditional costumes for themselves. And, unfortunately, the old clothes more and more fell into disrepair and threatened with complete disappearance. Therefore, representatives of the Romantic movement decided to capture the old national costumes in documents and drawings so that they would not disappear into oblivion. Their work has not gone unnoticed. The first to support this desire to preserve history was the bourgeoisie, who found in the costumes of their homeland a certain charm, attractiveness and beauty. They began to wear national attire for various celebrations, promoting it to the masses. It was also a fortunate coincidence that Norway gained independence, thereby raising the self-consciousness and pride of the inhabitants of these territories. And it was then that life was breathed into the national costume again.
Bunad was a full dress from head to toe: a skirt, embroidered blouse, waistcoat, jacket, headdress, stockings and shoes. By the way, some types of bunad are a one-piece dress. Over time, more and more decorations, embroidery and appliqués began to appear on its parts. The outfit indicated the commitment of the people to traditions and at the same time emphasized their individuality and unusualness. At present, bunad is in the wardrobe of almost every inhabitant of Norway, and there are about two hundred types of it. If you are lucky enough to be in this country on May 17, you will be surprised at how diverse bunads can be, and in general you will be very impressed by the abundance of costumes on the street. Although this clothing is considered universal for many types of festivities: from weddings to christenings.
Of course, there are people who honor traditions more than others (traditionalists), they argue that a foreign citizen should not wear a bunad, just like a resident of Norway of a certain territory should not dress in the attire of other parts of the country, because a certain settlement is characterized by its own ornaments, colors. An interesting fact is that most of the bunads have survived in their original form, only some of them have undergone some kind of reconstruction.
But what do the ideal clothes of a modern Norwegian girl look like?
The fact is that bright details are present mainly only on the bunad, thereby emphasizing its brightness and significance. Therefore, the Norwegian style is calm, monochrome and comfortable. If you want to live up to this cold country and feel the freshness and serenity of the Norwegian fjords when looking at you, here are a few tips.
First, be minimalist when composing your image. Norwegians do not like to experiment with cuts and styles in everyday clothes. Therefore, stick to the classic models.
Secondly, give preference to calm, monochrome colors.
As a rule, the inhabitants of Norway do not like prints, but if they risk diluting their image with them, they opt for checks, stripes and polka dots. You can buy a beautiful nautical-style dress, throw on a camel-colored trench coat and set off to conquer Oslo.
Of course, due to the fact that the weather in these lands does not please the inhabitants with warmth and endless sunny days, Norwegians prefer high-quality and comfortable things. Therefore, it is so important or another element of the wardrobe made of natural fabrics: cotton, silk, wool, etc. Many stores, including the Internet, provide people with the opportunity to purchase quality goods for a reasonable fee.
The Norwegian style is characterized by layering, again due to climatic conditions. Therefore, in photographs from the streets of Oslo, you can often see a girl in a jumper, cardigan, jacket and top with a finishing touch - a collar.
NATIONAL COSTUMES OF NORWAY
Norwegian national costumes appeared about 100 years ago, when the spirit of national romanticism swept the country.
Their design is based on local folk costumes that were on the verge of extinction.
People suddenly had a desire to keep everything traditional, including period costumes. Rural peasant traditions, which were originally Norwegian, began to be valued. After all, it was in the villages that the culture of the national costume was most developed, and foreign fashion had a strong influence on the inhabitants of the cities.
The first national costumes (in Norwegian bunad - "bunad") are very similar to the most common folk costumes. If the knowledge of the old traditions was not enough, they drew inspiration from individual elements of the costume or from other regional elements, such as painting and woodcarving or embroidery.
There are hundreds of different "bunads": each valley or city has its own, with many variations and colors.
In recent years, interest in Norwegian national costumes has been constantly growing. This becomes especially evident during the celebration of the Norwegian Constitution Day on May 17, during which a real show takes place: Norwegians take to the streets in the traditional costumes of their native regions.
Bunad Parade 2008
Annual Stevne Bunad Parade. A "bunad" is a traditional Norwegian costume, typically of rural origin and are local to Norway's traditional geographic districts. Many districts have their own distinct costume, worn for special occasions and national holidays. Sigdal is one of the districts in Norway.
"Stevne" is the Norwegian term for a convention, meeting, or rally.
"Lag" is a Norwegian word that has many meanings, one of them being "a group of people". Besides Sigdalslag, there are 31 other lags which cover other geographic areas of Norway. A handy source of information about all 32 lags is the web site .
Natalia Budur: BUNAD, NATIONAL COSTUME AND FESTDRACT
If you are lucky and you get to Norway on May 17, get ready - an unforgettable sight awaits you: all the streets of cities and towns are colored with national flags, and real demonstrations of people in national costumes go through the streets. But the Norwegians themselves cannot agree on what a bunad is and how it differs from the national costume.
On different sites and in different articles in the press devoted to this topic, often directly opposite points of view are expressed.
In one place you can read that bunad is the common name for many national costumes worn in different regions of Norway, and, in addition, it is also the name of national-style festive clothes reconstructed in the 20th century.
Another historian will argue that the bunad is a festive dress in the national style that has existed for centuries, which is worn on exceptionally solemn occasions. It, the bunad, is different from the "fake" folk costumes for solemn occasions, which were "designed" in cases where the knowledge of the old traditions was not enough, and the designers drew inspiration from individual elements of the bunad or rose painting (rosemaling) and wood carving or embroidery . Such "reconstructions" are often called "holiday attire" - festdrakt. In bunad stores, they are sold exactly as festdrakt, and not as bunad. So, for example, the very beautiful festdract Silje, which was invented by Dagny Bertelsen, is known and very popular with buyers.
A third art historian will say that the bunad is different from the national costume, because the national costume should be understood as everyday clothes, and the bunad is festive clothes.
Each point of view can be argued, especially since the word "bunad" itself comes from the ancient northern búnaðr - "clothing for the home" - and gives each side the opportunity to assert that it is right.
Such disputes are hardly interesting to a foreigner, because both the bunad and the festdrakt are stunningly beautiful, and a person who sees them for the first time freezes in admiration for a long time, with his mouth slightly open.
In Norway, there are currently about 200 types of bunads (plus many more variations). A complete set of women's attire includes: a blouse, vest, jacket, skirt, stockings (special ones, sometimes embroidered too!!!), a handbag with a silver lock, a shawl, mittens for winter and handmade jewelry made of silver or less often gold - special clasps, buttons, brooches called sølje, earrings, cufflinks (for women), earrings, rings, belts and special shoes. The "find" of the last couple of years - special umbrellas for bunad made of wool, decorated with hand embroidery and a special silver nameplate on the handle!
The men's costume consists of a shirt, vest, jacket, trousers, stockings, a hat, clasps cast in silver, buckles, cufflinks, buttons and special "bunad" shoes.
Almost every village (not to mention the city!) has its own type of bunad. Everyone has their own “past” and their own “traditions”. Very often, a bunad from the same area can be made in different colors. Sometimes in one village there are several types of national costume.
Most of the national costumes have been preserved in a more or less original form, and only a small part was reconstructed at the beginning of the 20th century based on historical sources.
Interest in the national costume arose in Norway in the second half of the 19th century as one of the manifestations of national romanticism. The country aspired to independence and self-determination, longed to acquire national symbols. One of these symbols was the national costume. Many women from privileged and intelligent families began not only to wear bunads, but also became interested in their history.
Gradually, a kind of women's movement arose, which first studied the history of national dances, and then began to study the national costume. This "movement" was led by Hulda Garborg (1862-1934), the wife of the famous writer Arne Garborg, and Clara Semb (1884-1970). They were the first who noticed that the costume should not only be beautiful and look like a real national one, but should be truly historical - while taking into account the color and quality of the fabric, embroidery pattern, types of jewelry and buttons. It was not so difficult to restore the bunads in their original form - because, fortunately, in Norway at that time there were wonderful “improvised” materials in the form of watercolors by Johan F.L. Dreyer and lithographs by Johan H. Senns from the early 19th century, which depicted ancient national costumes.
In 1947, a special "Council for Bunads and National Costumes of Norway" was founded (originally called "Landsnemda for Bunadspørsmål", now called "Bunad- og folkedraktrådet").
Bunad researchers can submit their reconstructions of ancient national costumes to the Council and subsequently begin their “production”, but at the same time they must meet the following requirements:
The researcher must submit historical documents (copies) on which he relied in his reconstruction, as well as the costume itself or its individual parts of the time specified in the application;
Clothing that will be reconstructed and then put into production must strictly comply with its historical parameters during production - for example, the type of fabric, style, decorations;
In addition to clothing, the Council is also required to provide art materials available to the researcher - for example, old watercolors or engravings;
When starting the production of a new bunad, the kit must certainly include all parts of the old costume, from clothes to shoes and jewelry;
Bunad must be made in the same way as before - that is. Threads, embroidery method, types of seams, etc. should be taken into account. For example, if a bunad of the 18th century is reproduced, then it must be sewn by hand;
Bunad should be produced in different versions, as it was in the good old days, and not turn into a uniform for all occasions.
Only when all requirements are met and the researcher sends to the Council a modern version of the bunad, for which he intends to obtain a license, can he begin to reproduce it and sell it in special stores.
Until the late Middle Ages, an amazing variety of forms and colors of folk clothing was preserved in Norway. Almost every mountainous province, separated from others by ridges, had its own folk costume, different from others. In the late Middle Ages, a pan-European type of costume penetrated Norway, first to suburban and coastal areas, and then to mountain valleys.
As a whole complex, folk costume almost fell into disuse a century ago. But by the end of the last century, when a movement for the revival of Norwegian antiquities arose in the country, in particular, old local types of rural clothing appeared again - the so-called bunad (Bunad). These clothes, for women richly colored with embroideries, reflecting, however, the styles and tastes of the new time, have become modern festive rural clothing. Several types of men's folk clothing and up to 150 variants of women's clothing are common, and the distribution area of \u200b\u200bthese species covers the south and south-west of Norway and they are almost never found in areas north of Trondheim.
In southern Norway and the valley regions of Gydbrandsdal, short (knee-length) trousers, red sweaters, woolen stockings and thick leather shoes with buckles are worn as festive men's clothing in the summer.
In the mountainous regions of southwestern Norway, on holidays, men wear a costume that resembles a jumpsuit in appearance. These are long cloth trousers, reaching at the top to the chest and held on top by the shoulders. Underwear is worn under the overalls, over it is a shirt, most often white, with wide sleeves and narrow cuffs. Over the shirt and overalls they wear a colored vest, usually red with black edging along the edges, with a turn-down collar, and they put on a light, most often white, cloth jacket with a standing collar embroidered with red and green floral ornaments. The shoulder is also embroidered along the armhole. The entire jacket is hemmed with a red cloth strip along the edges. Probably, by virtue of tradition, in the cities, preschool children are also dressed in colored overalls, and among adolescents, overalls are common as everyday attire.
Among the numerous forms of women's festive clothing now existing, two main types can be distinguished: a suit with a sundress and a suit with a skirt. However, the abundance of regional decorative features in each of these types diversifies the options for women's costumes so much that it can be considered that every county, sometimes even every valley in southern Norway has its own completely unique women's festive clothes.
The modern everyday clothes of the Norwegians differ little from the costumes of the townspeople of other countries of Western Europe. Norwegians, like all Scandinavians, much more than in other European countries, woolen products are common: knitted sweaters, jumpers, sweaters, socks, stockings, hats.
Workers, peasants and fishermen wear boots sewn with daggers made of cowhide or pigskin, which are usually not smeared with shoe polish, but soaked in fat. The same shoes are worn for skiing and hiking.
The fishing costume of fishermen and whalers is peculiar - a jacket and trousers made of goat or ram skin. Often, a linen impregnated with drying oil is used as a material for a fishing suit, and a tarpaulin is used for a hat. High boots are pulled on their feet, a round leather hat with wide brim is put on the head - the southwest. Under outerwear - woolen underwear and a sweater. In summer, women employed on the shore for cutting fish are widely used in fairly light clothing: shorts, an apron made of waterproof material, shoes or boots on their feet, often only a bra and a scarf on their heads on their upper body. In cool weather, the suit is complemented by trousers, a long-sleeved blouse and a waterproof jacket.
When working in the fields, the peasants cover their heads with a hat and do not wear a jacket or blouse, but put on a shirt tucked into trousers, with suspenders over it. Women usually work in the field with uncovered heads, the dress is covered with aprons. On weekdays, outside working hours, the clothes of peasants differ little from the clothes of townspeople, especially workers, but more than in the city, they are supplemented with knitted woolen products: vests, scarves, knitted or woven belts; women often wear bonnets, smart aprons with embroidery, ribbons or colored beads.
Food
On weekdays, Norwegians usually eat hot food twice a day: before and after work. Therefore, lunch is far from everywhere and is not always the main meal time. Peasants leaving for field work have their main meal in the morning. For fishermen who go to sea for the night and day, the main meal is before sailing.
In cities and fishing villages, lunch usually begins with meat broth, and in rural areas - with cereal, flour, potato, vegetable or fish soup.
Sweet fruit soups - plums, apples and pears - are often the third course of dinner. Milky rice soup is eaten as a celebratory dish.
One of the main places in the Norwegian menu is occupied by fish. Fish such as cod and herring are cheap and widely available. The most common fish dishes are boiled cod or salted herring with potato garnish, fried cod, flounder or halibut, boiled shrimp. Favorite national dish - clip-fix. This is cod, dried on the rocks, flattened and decapitated. It is taken on the road by fishermen, shepherds and peasants. They also eat smoked and dried fish. Expensive varieties of fish, in particular salmon, sturgeon, etc., are very rare on the table of the average Norwegian.
As a second course, in addition to fish, they eat meat dishes (roast, schnitzels) or cereals - barley, semolina, oatmeal. These are old traditional dishes. Wheat porridge with cream, the so-called fletegröt (fL0 tegr& t), known as one of the oldest Norwegian national dishes. It is common even today. Fletegret is a mandatory treat for peasants at a wedding, a ceremonial gift to a woman in labor, the main dish when treating neighbors for help in the household.
Potato dishes are widely represented in food. It is eaten boiled and fried, as an independent dish or as a side dish. The most common Norwegian potato dish is mashed potatoes with milk. They also eat vegetables and beans.
Of the fats, creamy margarine is the most widely used. Butter workers and fishermen consume less. Pork fat is eaten salted with bread, potatoes and onions are fried on it, and soup is boiled.
Dairy products are widely represented in the diet. For a long time, the Norwegian table has been distinguished by a variety of hard boiled cheeses, cottage cheese, and feta cheese. Especially popular is the dark cream-colored sweet goat cheese. Most often, cheese is eaten with bread or a bun prepared in the form of a sandwich. The table of Norwegians, like other Scandinavians, is famous for the abundance of various sandwiches: with cheeses, boiled and smoked hams, butter, stewed or boiled meat, fish caviar, honey, molasses, jam, etc.
Favorite drink is coffee. It is drunk at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tea is less common. Of the intoxicating drinks, beer is common, which is brewed at home in rural areas. In the Middle Ages, an intoxicating drink made from honey, meth, was popular. Now it is sometimes drunk at weddings in rural areas.
Bread in urban areas and for fishing villages is baked in bakeries. This is sour rye or wheat-rye black bread, as well as white wheat bread. The peasants bake their own bread. Even at the end of the last century, they baked exclusively unleavened flat bread in the form of flat cakes, often with a hole in the middle - flatbred (flat bed). Flatbread dough was kneaded from rye or mixed rye-barley flour, sometimes with the addition of oatmeal or pea flour. Flatbred was baked for several months. They kept cakes in pantries strung on a pole or on a rope. Shepherds took such bread with them for seters, and peasants for field work. Nowadays, peasants, along with flatbread, bake both sour black and white hearth bread for several days. It is typical for both types of Norwegian bread - flatbread and hearth bread - to mix anise or cumin into the dough. Among Norwegians and even Norwegians, especially in cities, tobacco smoking is very common. Cigarettes are smoked, but pipes are popular among fishermen and peasants.