What are summer shoes made from? What is the material of the shoe upper?
Hello my dear gentlemen, in this article I want to talk about the materials from which classic men's shoes are made and the technique of their manufacture, since this is a whole art, because making one pair can take several weeks and more than 200 operations.
Leatherette- the worst option, does not breathe, smells bad with intensive wear and causes problems with the dermis of the foot.
Cowhide- tough and wear-resistant. The cheapest of leathers. It takes a long time to wear out, and there are still noticeable creases on it. Does not get wet, good option for work boots or winter boots.
Cow's skin- softer than bullish. Most mass-market shoes are made from cow leather (Zara, Massimo, Dutti, Esco).
Calfskin- soft and durable. A great option for classic shoes and boots. There are different gradations, more on that later.
Cordovan leather- leather from the croup of a horse. Extremely wear-resistant, soft and unpretentious to use. Quite expensive. Shoes made from this leather rarely cost less than 500 euros.
Exotic skins- leather of ostrich (photo below), stingray, reptiles. They are mainly used to make designer shoes.
Leather varies according to the type of dressing
Smooth skin- mostly veal. Soft, wear-resistant, quite expensive. usually referred to as calf leather. 
Polished leather(Polished leather) - the same smooth leather, but on which during the tanning process any defects, stretch marks, or minor scratches were discovered. In this case, it is processed and painted with paints with the addition of wax and other impurities, after which it is polished to give a pronounced gloss. This kind of leather turns out to be tougher. Typically, shoes made from polished leather cost a little less than those made from smooth leather by 25-35%.
Suede, nubuck- soft velvety leather, well breathable, produced by fat and formaldehyde-fat tanning, mainly from calf skins. Contrary to popular belief, it is quite wear-resistant if properly cared for. Not particularly formal shoes are made from suede: moccasins, boat shoes, chakkas, etc. Nubuck makes excellent winter and work shoes.
Polished leather- aka Patened leather. It is obtained by applying varnish or varnish film over the skin. Not durable, but resistant to stains. Patent leather shoes are usually worn only with a tuxedo or evening suit. It should not be worn at temperatures below -10 and above +25.
The sole can be attached in different ways: glued, vulcanized, sewn or sewn with glue.
Glued sole It is easier to manufacture and shoes made from it are more flexible and comfortable. If all technological standards are followed, it can be quite durable, but I did not recommend buying shoes with glued soles that cost more than 7-8 thousand rubles.
Stitched sole(welt method) - as the name implies, it is sewn to shoes. The most common method is Goodyear. The sole is attached using waxed threads. When stitched together, the wax melts and then hardens to seal the holes in the sole, preventing moisture from entering the shoe. Shoes sewn using the welt method cost from 8 thousand rubles to infinity. Even if the thread breaks or wears off somewhere, this will not affect the quality of the fastening. There are also different types of this method, for example, Storm Welt - a strip of leather is sewn over the welt along the boot for better protection from moisture. The Veldtschoen design is also interesting.
The soles themselves can also be made of different materials. Mainly leather, rubber, rubber and polyurethane.
The most formal is considered leather sole. But she is quite capricious. It is not recommended to wear shoes with such soles in rain or winter; our reagents and salt on the roads will instantly corrode them. Some recommend putting a prophylactic on such a sole, a thin rubber lining, but many manufacturers are against this, as they claim that prophylaxis can upset the balance of the shoe and the sole stops “breathing.” I believe that if you put in preventive maintenance, it is better to do it after at least a month of wear, and from a trusted specialist. By this time, the sole will get used to the foot and take a certain shape. However, there are autumn shoes with leather soles, where they are thicker and retain heat better.
Polyurethane outsole- more wear-resistant, but less formal; the thinner the sole, the more formal the shoes look. Practically does not slip and retains heat well. Some of the best soles are those from Dainite and Vibram.
Crepe sole— made from natural rubber. Used in informal footwear such as chakka boots. It washes out quite quickly in city conditions, does not tolerate dirt and low temperatures, but is soft.
Inner shoe lining(Lining) - can be made of leatherette, leather, or rag (linen, thick cotton). The first option is extremely undesirable for the same reasons as leatherette shoes themselves. Linen lining is better for tapered shoes because it breathes better and allows heat to pass through. The best lining option for classic shoes is leather. Breathes and does not create unpleasant odors.
Fashionable winter shoes 2017
In 2017, fashion provides all kinds of models, colors and textures to choose from. The trend of the season is convenience and comfort, so the main selection criteria remain with the buyer; fashion this winter only indicates preferences. This season, boots of various shades will be popular - from black and blue to white and milky. The shape of the heel may vary, and models with tapered or round toes are also preferred.
Wedge boots are at the peak of popularity. This winter, fashion supports an unusual solution in the form of striped, snakeskin-covered or metallic heels, as well as heels with a wide variety of textures. Both low boots and knee-high boots, inspired by the fashion of the middle of the last century, are relevant and are in demand in our time.
The range of colors cannot but delight the buyer - this season welcomes “warm” colors and shades of burgundy, as well as the classics - gray, black and blue. The platform or heel, as well as its shape, can be very diverse, high and low, thick or stiletto heels, here fashion does not set rigid boundaries. As for the shape of the sock, it can be oval, round or narrow.
Low boots in classic colors without heels or on platforms are the main trend of the season. They can have either a straight wide boot or an accordion. Ugg boots and high boots, as the most comfortable model, have been in fashion since last winter and still occupy store shelves. This winter, the style provides complete freedom of choice - color, shaft height and the presence or absence of fur are not dictated by fashion, you can choose the desired model according to your taste. It is important to remember that during the cold season you must have at least one pair of soft and warm shoes for relaxation.
When choosing shoes, we often ask a question. How long will these shoes last me? Will the shoes get wet? Are these shoes suitable for every day at work, for a walk, etc.? ...
In this article we will tell you what materials are available for making shoes, as well as linings. Advantages and features of these materials. Let's learn to distinguish between these types of materials.
Smooth skin
Tanned animal skin. It can be the skin of lamb, kid, cow, horse, pig or any other animal (usually the skin of cows and calves is used, in about 75% of cases), which through chemical processing (tanning) is transformed into a product that satisfies our needs. Tanning makes the leather breathable, and special treatment subsequently ensures a long period of wearing the product (does not deteriorate like any natural product), and also makes the leather softer, giving it the ability not to tear when impacted, which is important when using products.
Advantages: Breathable, stretches well, more hygienic than synthetics.
Embossed leather
Embossing imitates textiles or other textures. Embossing is performed on the front surface of the leather; it helps hide possible defects on the surface of the skin. It is performed on a special press, where a design is applied under pressure; exposure to heat makes the skin darker.
Advantages: The same as in genuine leather + Due to the applied embossing, creases do not form.
Glossy leather
Has a shiny front surface. The personal layer is processed with glass rollers at high speed.
Advantages: Elegant look, unlike smooth skin.
Suede
Soft “velvet” to the touch material for shoe uppers. During tanning, the leather passes through a cutting machine, where long, very sharp knives separate the leather into the front and back parts. Leather can be processed in this way on both sides to form suede.
Advantages: Exquisite appearance; Smooth skin allows air to pass through better; soft and light; On suede, creases form on less than smooth leather.
However, suede that has not been treated with special water-repellent agents is afraid of moisture and is not recommended to be worn in wet weather.
Nubuck
Chrome-tanned leather for shoe uppers and haberdashery, obtained by polishing the front surface of the leather with fine-grain abrasives to give it a refined appearance. The abrasive treatment process makes the smooth surface of the skin velvety and soft.
Advantages: Lightweight, soft, if a scratch appears, it can be rubbed off. Without additional treatment, it is not recommended to wear in wet weather.
Oiled nubuck
Nubuck, which after sanding was impregnated with an oil-based substance.
Advantages: Impregnated nubuck has a more “antique” look, its slightly greasy surface gives the shoe an originality; It gets wet a little less than regular nubuck.
Polished leather
Chrome-tanned leather for shoe uppers and haberdashery, with varnish coating (polyurethane varnish) or duplication with varnish film. Dries in complete absence of dust.
Advantages: Shoes made of patent leather are trendy in every season; they are afraid of low temperatures (may crack)
Faux leather
Artificial leather is a multi-layer system consisting of an impregnated or unimpregnated fibrous base (fabric, non-woven or knitted fabric) with a front polymer film coating and finishing depending on the purpose.
Advantages: Does not allow water to pass through, holds its shape well, is inexpensive, has low hygienic properties when worn for a long time.
Textile
Woven and non-woven materials, both from synthetic fiber and from natural fiber with synthetic additives.
Advantages: Easy to clean, breathable, keeps its shape well. A huge variety of textures and colors.
How to distinguish shoes with faux leather uppers from leather shoes?
This is difficult to do in finished shoes. If the edges of the upper parts are trimmed (stitched in the trim) and not folded, then threads or fibers from the base of the artificial leather may be visible at their ends. Natural and artificial leather have different thermal conductivity characteristics, so when we place our palm on a leather part, we instantly feel warmth, and on a faux leather part, coolness. During wear, the upper of a shoe made of genuine leather is deformed, adapting to the contours of a particular foot, while the upper of an artificial leather shoe, as a rule, retains the shape of the last.
Types of substrate materials
Leather
hygiene, good air and vapor permeability, comfortable material for the foot.
Faux leather
Cheap, holds its shape well.
Textile
Easy to clean, dries quickly, very hygroscopic (absorbs moisture well) material.
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Felt. Very warm and wear-resistant natural material. Also used for making insoles.
Artificial fiber
textile based Warm and inexpensive material.
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Natural wool
on a textile basis - natural sheared wool, stuffed on a knitted base. Very warm, hygienic and wear-resistant material.
Natural sheepskin fur , often trimmed to tighten the shoes evenly. Very warm material, hygienic
Animal leather (cow or pig) is most often used in shoe production. Textile fibers, such as cotton, and man-made fibers and leather, which have the same properties as natural fibers, are also used. Materials such as rubber and caoutchouc are used to make shoes that protect feet from rain and dampness.
Nowadays, many artificial elastic materials are known that have properties similar to natural textile fibers and animal skin.
What materials are houses made from?
Houses can be built from a variety of materials. Which one to choose depends on the place of residence, climate, habits and funds available to the builders.
The most commonly used materials are stone or brick, cement, iron, wood, ceramics, glass and some materials made from petroleum used as insulating materials.
What is soap?
This is a mass made from vegetable oils or animal fats with the addition of an alkaline product: caustic soda or potassium carbonate.
Soap dissolves in water and is used to remove dirt and grease.
Soap was invented many centuries ago, and its production was already known in Ancient Egypt and the ancient civilizations of the East.
What materials are used in the kitchen?
Items used in the kitchen are made from a wide variety of materials, such as metals such as steel, iron or aluminum. Motors and contacts of household electrical appliances are made of metals: refrigerators or freezers, washing machines, microwave ovens, stoves, etc. Plastic is usually used to produce appliance housings; the motor and various electrical parts are placed in it. Rubber is used to make seals and joints of parts, for drains, and glass is inserted into doors and windows.
What is glass made of?
Glass is the most commonly used material by humans. It is strong and heavy and difficult to cut, although it is easy to break as it is brittle, but the most important thing for its use is that glass is transparent.
Currently, glass is made from sand, calcium carbonate and limestone.
When producing glass, all the ingredients are mixed and placed in a furnace at a temperature of 1400-1500 degrees C. In this case, the mixture melts, that is, turns into an almost liquid mass, and after cooling, the result is glass.
How are products stored?
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We mainly eat natural products. Many of them spoil very quickly because bacteria, light and air have a detrimental effect on them.
Nowadays, most food is vacuum packaged, removing air to prevent spoilage. Other products are protected by plastic packaging or bags that preserve them. Fresh foods such as meat, fish and fruits should be consumed within one to two days.
There are other ways to preserve food, such as drying and salting. When drying, products are exposed to the sun or placed in a dry place for several weeks. At the same time, the liquid contained in them evaporates and the food does not spoil for a long time. Salting (salting) is based on the use of salt to protect products from the growth of bacteria in them. The refrigerator also helps keep food fresh for several days. Frozen foods are being consumed more and more every day because they can be stored for many months. Preservation methods such as making marmalades and confitures are also very practical.
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| Nastya | 4 May 2011, 07:16:09 |
Shoes are one of the oldest accessories of human clothing. Its history dates back thousands of years. People started wearing shoes a long time ago, back in prehistoric times. At first, apparently, these were simply pieces of animal skins or skins with which our distant ancestors wrapped their legs, trying to protect them from cold and dampness, from bruises and cuts. Later, pieces of skins or skins began to be sewn together, giving them the shape of a leg.
In ancient Rus', people who made shoes were called usmoshvetsy: “usma” is the ancient Russian name for leather. Around the 11th century. the word "shoemaker" appeared.
Currently, sewing operations make up no more than a quarter of all operations in the manufacture of shoes, but according to tradition, shoe production is still called tailoring, and the main workshops of shoe factories are called sewing.
The shoes that you wear every day - boots, boots, shoes, slippers, sandals, etc. - are called household shoes. In addition, there are special shoes: industrial, sports, military, etc.
Different shoes cover the foot differently and have very different shapes.
Each type of shoe is assembled from a large number of parts. For example, a typical boot consists of 9 leather upper parts, 6 fabric lining parts and 9 lower parts.
Shoes should be durable, light, beautiful and, most importantly, comfortable.
First of all, the shoes must match the length of the foot. To do this, the length of the shoe should slightly exceed the length of the foot, and have a margin or allowance. After all, our foot easily supports the weight of our body because it has a springy, arched shape. When we walk or stand, the foot can lengthen up to 1.4 cm and expand up to 1.7 cm. Therefore, if there is no reserve in the shoe, the foot quickly gets tired when walking. The amount of reserve depends on the shape and purpose of the shoes. Thus, the stock of winter boots, which are usually worn on thick woolen socks, should be greater than that of slippers or sandals, which are worn in the summer with a thin stocking or sock, or even just on bare feet.
The length of the shoe is determined by the distance along the axis of the insole from the extreme point of the heel to the extreme point of the toe. This distance - shoe size - is measured in units, special units of length (one unit is equal to 2/3 cm). The shoe number is determined by the number of stitches. If, for example, the length of the insole is 36 lengths (24 cm), then the shoe is assigned the number 36. This system for determining shoe sizes was adopted in our Soviet Union. It is called stichmassova. But there are other systems: metric (a length of 1 cm is taken as a number), inch (a unit of length is taken as 1/3 of an English inch, i.e. 8.467 mm).
Footwear can be household (boots, shoes, sandals, etc.) and special (industrial, sports, military, etc.).
In the Soviet Union, shoes are manufactured from sizes 10 to 48. The smallest - from 10 to 16 sizes - is intended for babies who have just learned to walk, and is called “booties”, and from 17 to 21 sizes - “hussars”.
When choosing shoes, you should also take into account its fullness (height, girth), which is designated conventionally by a number corresponding to the size of the widest part of the foot. The fullness of shoes is determined according to tables obtained as a result of mass measurements of the feet of people of very different builds. The fullness number along with the length number is placed on the lining of the shoe and on its sole near the heel. Shoes of various sizes go on sale according to so-called sizes, i.e. with a certain percentage of different numbers in each batch.
Fabrics and wood, rubber and cardboard have long been used in the production of shoes along with leather. Recently, the shoe industry has widely used artificial materials produced synthetically in chemical factories and factories. These materials not only do not worsen, but often even improve the quality of shoes and at the same time make them much cheaper, since they are inexpensive.
Here are two pairs of beautiful women's shoes. Some of them are leather, others are made of artificial materials and cost 3 times less than the first, although they look no worse. What's the matter?
The history of these shoes is quite long. Their upper is made of synthetic rubber. This is a very cheap raw material. However, it was not so easy to obtain material from it suitable for the production of shoes. The fact is that the “skin” made of synthetic rubber did not allow air to pass through, and the foot in such shoes could not “breathe”. After a long search, a solution was found. Crushed potassium chloride was added to the rubber mixture, then the resulting mass was applied in a thin layer to the felt. After heat treatment, the “skin” was washed with water; potassium chloride dissolved in water, and many pores appeared on the “skin”.
What are the soles of these shoes made of? It's lighter than cork! Its specific gravity is only 0.1-0.2 g/cm², while that of leather is 1. The new microporous sole, currently produced in the USSR, is elastic and durable. The foot does not get tired when walking on such a sole. This happens because a special substance, a blowing agent, is introduced into the rubber mixture from which the sole is made. During the vulcanization of the material at high temperatures, it releases gas: expanding, this gas creates many tiny bubbles, thus forming “air rubber”.
Very high demands are placed on the material from which shoes are made. First of all, it is unacceptable for him to be harsh; After all, when worn, shoes constantly bend on the foot, and a person should not spend a lot of effort on this. In addition, the material must have the ability to stretch, otherwise shoes cannot be made from it. And, finally, it must well absorb the moisture released by the foot (and 0.5-1 G is released per hour) and release it to the external environment, i.e. evaporate.
Shoe manufacturing is divided into the following main operations: 1) cutting the material, 2) preparing parts for assembly, 3) assembling and fastening the workpiece (the workpiece is the upper of the shoe, sewn from individual parts), 4) molding the workpiece, 5) attaching the bottom parts to the workpiece and 6) finishing of finished shoes.
Shoe parts are cut out from basic materials (sheets of leather, cardboard, artificial leather, fabric) on special presses using cutters (knives). The steel blades of the cutters are made in the form of a contour closed in the shape of the part. The material is placed on the press base plate, the desired cutter is installed on it, then the press impact plate is lowered.
At first glance, cutting the material does not seem particularly difficult. In reality, it requires very high qualifications from the employee. The cutters must be placed on a piece of leather so that after cutting there are as few scraps as possible. The cost of the shoes depends on this.
The most important parts, for example vamps (a part of the upper of a shoe), are cut out from the central, stronger and thicker part of the leather, and the secondary ones are placed along the edges as close to one another as possible. In addition, each piece must be positioned in the direction in which the leather stretches (which, as you will see, is very important when shaping the workpiece). The difficulty also lies in the fact that from each leather it is necessary to cut out a strictly specified number of parts - a set.
When preparing shoe parts for assembly, mainly the edges of these parts are processed: they are cut off, painted, bent, etc. The soles and insoles are leveled in thickness and their surface is polished. Leather heels are assembled from individual plates and molded under high pressure in a press.