How to use a sewing machine. Mini sewing machine Manual portable sewing machine instructions
She stepped on the hem of a skirt with her heel, her husband tore his trousers at a friend’s wedding, and a child’s dress tore at the seams before a performance. What to do? A mini manual sewing machine is your irreplaceable savior in such a situation.
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Mini sewing machine: how to use it correctly? Are there any differences from the usual
The mini sewing machine is designed for minor repairs of clothes, curtains, tablecloths, bed linen, etc. It can be used effectively in road as well as domestic conditions in the absence of a stationary sewing machine. But what about a house without a machine for repairing and sewing things up? If you don’t know how to sew at all, or you don’t have enough money or space for a stationary model, then a small sewing machine will be a worthy substitute for a needle and thread and a good helper in everyday life.Advantages of mini sewing machines:
- mobility - such models weigh from 100 to 300 grams, are small in size and will definitely fit in an ordinary women's handbag. You can take them with you on a visit, trip or business trip
- ease of use – the design of the machines is very simple. Just insert the thread into the needle and you can start sewing. Simple even for a child
- versatility - can sew fabrics of different thicknesses (from chintz or cotton, to denim or leather in several layers)
- variety of stitches - such devices perform up to 70% of the types of seams of conventional models of stitching machines. They can sew with a straight stitch, slip stitch, buttonhole stitch, simple decorative patterns and chain stitch finishing.
How to thread a mini sewing machine
Unlike conventional machines, the stitcher only works with one thread. You won’t have to worry about threading the upper and then the lower thread, using bobbins, checking the thickness of the thread, etc.
Any sewing thread is suitable for the stitcher. To fill them correctly, you need to strictly follow the instructions.
Advice! If the instructions upon purchase were in a foreign language or were written in a complex manner, remember and make a note of the location of the already threaded thread in your new model. You can easily repeat it.An example of the threading sequence for the Handy Stitch machine can be seen in the figure.
Depending on the thickness of the fabric, you should select a needle of the right size and not insert it deeply into the needle groove.
A special screw or switch can be used to adjust the length of the stitches or their shape. For example, stitching, zigzag, buttonhole stitch, etc.
This is, perhaps, all the difficulties of refueling. Next, by pressing on the handle (like a stapler), you can sew together the parts of your product.
Rating of the best and inexpensive mini sewing machines
Now in online stores you can find a huge number of mini sewing machines from various manufacturers. Which one to choose? Let's look further...
Zimber mini cars
Characteristics:- weight does not exceed 305g.
- maximum stitch length is 4 mm
- the model is capable of performing 8 different operations
- body made of plastic
- equipped with an electric motor that runs on AA batteries (four pieces) or a battery (500mAh). The battery is charged from the mains via an adapter. The device can also be operated directly from the network.
- The delivery set includes 3 spools of thread, a thread threader and instructions in Russian
Handy Stitch mini machine
Characteristics:- weight - 305g.
- works with AA batteries. You need 4 of them
- complete with 3 bobbins with thread, two needles, thread puller
- body made of plastic
Mini Jaguar cars
Jaguar has long been known among customers for its lightweight, but practical and functional models of stationary sewing machines. The smallest model is the Jaguar 281.Features of the Jaguar 281 car model
- The body is made of plastic, the functional parts are metal
- Lightweight, compact model. Doesn't take up much space in the house
- Powered by an electric motor
- Adjustable stitch length from 0 to 4 mm
- Performs a simple line stitch and various types of zigzag
- The kit includes additional needles, hooks, bobbins, needles
If you do not need to take the device with you on vacation, and you plan to use it at home, then this model is “on top.”
At the moment, the Jaguar 281 mini-car is not in production, but it can be successfully bought on the used equipment market for about 4 thousand rubles.
Mini cars from aliexpress
The cheapest way to purchase a small modern sewing machine is on the Aliexpress site. The minimum price for such products starts from $2:- DIY brand cars from $2
- 2017 mini models - about 7 - 9 $
- stationary mini sewing machines Dual from $18
- embroidery machines – from $21, equipped with overlocker
Advice! Mini hand sewing machines will not replace your stationary sewing machines. They can only help you quickly repair parts, perform minor clothing repairs and bring undoubted convenience on the road. It is impossible to compare their work with the work of stationary machines; these are completely different devices.
First, the name of the parts, and then I will show and tell you about the malfunctions. And methods for eliminating them.
On photo 1:
Children's sewing machine FHSM-203, made in China. The car is a complete misunderstanding. Its repair costs two to three times more than its cost. Just 10 minutes after it was given to the child, she stopped sewing. We bought it at the market. So, there could be no talk of an exchange.
I spent three days repairing the car. When setting up a regular machine, it takes 2 hours. It takes a week to write an article. Provided that all the photos are available.
On Photo 1. photo 2,
- view of the car from the front. I show the machine parts with numbers, but here are their names and purposes:
- The lower part of the machine is called the platform.
This is the Sleeve.
- On this machine, the sleeve and platform are one whole.
- Thread take-up.
Rod for wooden reel.
- The machine is not intended for sewing wound threads on a roll. The machine tears them apart. And he refuses to sew!
- Thread guides.
- Tension regulator, upper thread. The purpose of this part is unclear. The box shows that this is a bobbin winder. But structurally, the bobbin winder is located on the flywheel. Look
- This button on all machines is called tack. On this electric one, this button is called Reverse. When the button is pressed, the machine advances the material away from us. Pressed, the machine advances the material towards us.
- This button performs the function - sewing, maximum speed.
- Flywheel.
- Thread guide.
- The rod is a needle bar.
- Needle thread guide.
- Needle holder screw.
- Needle.
The kit included a needle with the machine.
The needle is made of non-hardened steel, chrome plated, but regularly bends. It is unacceptable!
Put the needle from household machine No. 100! See article
(Clicking on this blue inscription will take you to an article about the needle)
The needle is the most important part in a sewing machine.
Photo 2.
On photo 3, car from the back.
- The green circles are the screws for fastening the rear plastic cover to the front. There are 8 of these places.
- Access button to the bobbin. The plastic, transparent lid flips open.
- Lifting lever, rod - paws.
- A spring with legs on the rod.
- Foot fastening screw.
- Paw.
- This sleeve contains a screw securing the back cover to the front.
- Main shaft.
- This is a reversing switch - “hold on tight”.
- Epoxy resin that needs to be poured to restore the bushing.
- The hole to be drilled is D - 0.5 - 0.6 mm. Then pin it with wire. Or a cotter pin.
- Factory soldered rod with cap. It is a limiter for the stroke of the bobbin winder rod. In this position, the bobbin winder is disabled.
- In this position, the rod with the cap turns the bobbin winder into the working position.
- The groove along which the rod slides, with a cap.
- Flywheel.
- On the narrow part of the sleeve, wind 2-3 turns of thin annealed steel wire. Twist the ends of the wire - bend the end of the twist. So that during rotation they do not touch the legs of the reverse switch.
- Place a piece of chewed gum into the sleeve. Compact. But so that it does not fit into the spring.
- Let the gum harden.
- Pour epoxy resin into the bushing.
- After 2-3 days, when the resin has hardened, drill a hole along the diameter of the main shaft. Inside a plastic sleeve.
- And one hole, drill across, bushings. In its narrow part. Through - putting it on the main shaft. And turning off the bobbin winder.
- Through the drilled hole, insert a cotter pin through the main shaft.
- Spread the legs of the cotter pin in different directions and wrap around the narrow part, a plastic sleeve.
- Rubber foot.
- Rubber foot.
- Access cover for AA batteries.
- Release button, access covers, for AA batteries.
- Rubber foot.
- Rubber foot.
- Rubber foot.
- Rubber foot.
- Shown are the bushings into which self-tapping screws with semi-round heads are screwed. There is a cross under the screwdriver.
- Plugged hole. Look (photo 2 no. 7).
- Reverse button.
- Power button, electric motor.
- A socket, a plug for a power supply is inserted into it, like a mobile phone.
- A socket, a plug, and electric pedals are inserted into it.
- Lower transmission gear, vertical shaft.
- Vertical shaft.
- Upper bevel, vertical shaft gear.
- Right, bevel gear, main shaft.
- Main shaft.
- Technical Vaseline.
- A clamp that performs the function of: left bushing, main shaft.
- Crank.
- Needle bar guide.
- Set the thread take-up to the highest position.
- Unscrew screws No. 18 of the main shaft clamp on the left and the same clamp on the right No. 30.
- Unscrew the fastening screw, thread take-up axle No. 29.
- Remove the main shaft assembly from the diagram. And put it aside.
- Remove leash No. 19.
- Cut off the upper and lower parts of the leash, shown as a green dot, with a knife.
- Insert lead No. 19 into place.
- With the thread take-up up, install the main shaft in place.
- Connect the main shaft No. 16 to the needle bar driver No. 20.
- Install clamps No. 18 and No. 30 in place, turning the screws.
- Insert the thread take-up axis into the seat, apply the cover and tighten it with a self-tapping screw.
- Pull out the power plug from socket No. 3.
- On seat No. 7, wind 3 - 4 turns of wire and twist the ends of the wire.
- shuttle mechanism block.
- Movement mechanism, material.
- Raising and lowering mechanism, conveyor block.
- Material conveyor.
- A guide with a material conveyor attached to it.
- Bobbin.
- Bobbin.
- The groove into which the pin is inserted, the eccentric shown in (photo 15 under No. 27).
- The body of the block contains a black plate, fixed in the center with a screw - a self-tapping screw. It performs the function: mechanism for raising and lowering the conveyor block .
- Fastening screw, top bar, access to the shuttle.
- Fastening screw, top bar, access to the shuttle.
- Fastening screw, top bar, access to the shuttle.
- Black plate, raises this pin, lifting and lowering mechanism, conveyor block.
- The place where the block is attached with a screw to the housing.
- The place where the block is attached with a screw to the body.
- Place of attachment, top plate.
- Place of attachment, top plate.
- Place of attachment, top plate.
- Fastening screw, pressure, black strip. No. 8.
- Push-on, black bar. Metal.
- Shuttle nose. It turned out to be spicy. Like the point of a needle.
- The stream in which the bobbin lies. No flaws.
- Teeth, straight gear. They are the ones who rotate the shuttle.
- A curved groove along which plate No. 15 moves.
- Groove, curved. A black metal plate is fixed through this groove. On lifting and lowering of the conveyor block.
- Black, metal - plate.
- The plate is a gear, with grooves.
- Base. Block body.
- The right one is the seat of the block, in the machine body.
- The left one is the seat of the block, in the machine body.
- We lower the block vertically, with groove No. 1, into the machine.
- Having turned the shuttle block 90 degrees to the left around the eccentric pin, we lower it along the guides into the machine body.
- The guide is right.
- The guide is left.
- Fastening screw, shuttle axis, to the block body.
- The axis of attachment, a black metal plate, to the block body.
- Semi - Block, for batteries.
- The guides must fit into the grooves!
- Coil.
- The tension regulator, the upper thread, has a very powerful spring.
- The thread guide is made of a ring.
- Thread take-up. Not red-hot. The thread is abrasive, a month, and the thread will rub this hole - turn it into a through slot.
- The thread guide is made of a ring.
- Needle thread guide.
- Into the igloo, from the side of the long gutter.
Photo 3.
On photo 4, front part.
Photo 4.
On photo 5. view of the flywheel.
The flywheel didn't hold on, it just pulled out.
Photo 5.
On photo 6, a flywheel that fell out of the car.
The numbers show the components:
Cause of failure:
The plastic has burst! And because of the spline knurling, on the main shaft - the inner sleeve - was eaten from the inside.
The only way out for recovery in this situation is:
Photo 6.
On photo 7, Number No. 1 shows the bobbin winder. By pressing this axis and turning it slightly around the longitudinal axis, it will hide in the flywheel.
Photo 7.
On photo 8, View of the flywheel.
I put a spring on the narrow part before pouring epoxy resin into the bushing.
Photo 8.
On photo 9, view of the bottom of the car.
Photo 9.
On photo 10, label with the name of the machine. Labels along the seam, cut with a knife.
Photo 10.
On photo 11, front front - facing cover. Inside view.
Photo 11.
On photo 12, The transmission mechanism is shown - from the engine, to gears and shafts.
Photo 12.
On photo 13, the whole mechanism, machines.
The pedal only works when button No. 2 is depressed.
Remedy - see below.
Malfunction:
When sewing, the needle bar guide hit the bottom part against the top of the needle bar frame. Causing knocking and strong vibration of the machine.
Remedy:
Malfunction:
Crack in the seat of sliding bearing No. 7.
Remedy:
With this action, we will compress seat No. 7. This is a reliable mount.
Photo 13.
In photo 14, three mechanisms are in one block:
Pay attention to the bobbin case, there is no spring in it, no tension on the lower thread. Just a groove. This is the design.
On plate number 6, teeth. These teeth transmit movement to the shuttle gear. This causes the rotation of the shuttle.
Photo 14.
On photo 15, The top plate has been removed. The bobbin case is taken out, with a bobbin.
In this primitive block, no faults were identified. Yes, there are gaps, and everything is plastic that wears out quickly. But it works well.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Photo 15.
On photo 16, shows the installation of the shuttle block into the machine body.
here is the procedure:
Target:eccentric slot - should fit - on finger No. 1.
In this position, tighten the screws securing the shuttle block to the machine body. (See photo 13 No. 25 and No. 26).
Photo 16.
On photo 17, The procedure for threading the upper thread is shown:
The reel must be wooden! The threads should be located as close to the surface of the machine as possible; when installing a tube with a wound thread on the rod, there is a strong tension on the upper thread and jamming of the shuttle mechanism.
The screw is soldered into the top thread regulator cover. The wall thickness of the front part of the case is 2 mm. In a month, this screw will fly out and adjustment will stop happening! You will have to drill out a screw, insert a screw in its place, and glue a nut into the core, from the inside, with epoxy resin. But perhaps, after a month of use by a child, the body of the car will break or the electric motor will burn out.
Photo 17.
The guideline for adjustment is the thread tension in the stitch!
When changing the thickness of the thread between the plates, tighten the nut; if the thread is thinner, unscrew it. If the thread is pressed too hard, it will break.
If the thread is thicker, unscrew it. Imagine that one full turn of the nut is the face of a watch.
So, having made a mark on the nut with a felt-tip pen, you need to tighten it for 15 minutes, a little for another 15 minutes, a lot - loosen for 7.5 minutes. Then at - 3.25, etc. If knots are visible at the top, in the stitching, the upper thread is too tight. If we lift the material, we will see the bottom thread. If it is free and not drawn into the needle punctures, this means that the upper thread is weakly clamped in the plates.
Example:
The lower thread is not tensioned, in the bobbin case. If the lower adjustment is made as described here. This photo suggests that the upper thread needs to be loosened. That is, unscrew the nut for 15 minutes. Flash it! Few? For another 15 minutes. Until a line appears as in photo 20.
Photo 18.
In photo 19, the upper thread, in the plates, is greatly weakened. The upper thread needs to be tightened. To do this, tighten the nut for 7.5 minutes! Few? Another 3.2 minutes. Until the line appears, photo 20.
Photo 19.
On photo 20, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! But in order to see such a line, it is necessary to tear a thread from a stitched piece of fabric. And try to slightly separate the upper fabric from the lower one, as in photo 21.
Photo 20.
On photo 21, Thread tension is adjusted correctly! The interweaving of threads occurs strictly along the axis of the materials being sewn.
Figuring out how to use a sewing machine is actually the easiest thing! It is much more difficult to learn to sew. But let's not rush our horses and start from the very basics.
Modern cars, and not modern ones, by the way, are designed almost the same. Even those rare Zingers that were used long before you were born have almost the same structure. And if you understand how to use any one, the remaining modifications will no longer puzzle you so much and confuse you.
Of course, it would be better if it were, but often the opposite situation occurs when the machine is bought second-hand or inherited. Then, before refueling it, you need to try to find a detailed description of the process specifically for this model on the Internet.
But we will still present the universal process of threading and starting the machine, using the example of a conventional electric model. By and large, they differ only on the inside, but on top and on the side panels they look the same. Moreover, all modern cars are equipped with small, clear pictures above each button or lever. Therefore, you have to try very hard not to understand at all how to exploit it.
The most basic steps for threading a sewing machine
Once you get the hang of it, this process will take you three minutes at most. In the meantime, remember exactly what actions you will need to perform before you start sewing:
- Install the needle and secure it
- Install the upper spool of thread
- Use it to wind the bottom coil
- Thread the machine from the top and bring it to the bottom spool
- Plug the mechanism into the outlet and press the “Start” button
Of course, this procedure doesn’t tell you anything yet, but it will be very useful to you after you read the second and third blocks. You can look at it and check, it's convenient.
Now let's take it step by step.
- Power button. As a rule, it is located on the right side of the sewing machine, since all machines are designed for those for whom the right hand is the main one, in a word, right-handers.
- Upper reel seat. This is the most ordinary pin, which is located on the top of the case. A reel is put on it, nothing complicated.
- Thread guide. It is located on the needle holder (what it is is clear and without explanation, I hope). The thread guide guides the upper thread to the bobbin (the lower spool of thread that is wound by the main spool on top). It looks like a small metal plate.
- Pin for bobbin winder. It is located next to the reel seat, also shaped like a pin, but smaller. A reel is placed on it. A thread is wound around it, and then it is placed in a bobbin and placed inside the machine, down. That is, this is a lower coil, but it is refueled from above before it gets into its place.
- Stitch adjustment buttons. Usually, they are located in the most visible place of the body. They look like sliders or round rotary knobs. They have pictures with types of stitches, so it is almost impossible to miss them. These buttons can be used to adjust not only the stitch length, but also the direction (back and forth).
- Thread take-up. Always located on the left, front part of the body. The thread is threaded into it after it has been threaded through the thread guide. Looks like a lever.
- Thread tension regulator. It is located on the foot, in the form of a wheel or a twisting lever on a thread. It regulates the thread tension. If it is set incorrectly, the line at the bottom of the sewing line will have loops and not be smooth. In general, the seam will not be tight, but loose.
- Needle holder with screw. The needle is inserted into it, by loosening it a little, and then, after the needle is inserted, the screw is tightened tightly. It is always located on the right side of the needle holder, and it is not so tiny that it cannot be noticed.
- Paw. The paw is a paw because it looks like it. I'm sure you won't confuse it with anything else. But, just in case, this is a part located under the needle holder and visually similar to small skis. It is needed to fix and hold the fabric while sewing.
- Lever for lowering the presser foot. When you start sewing, you lower this lever and the foot presses down the fabric. When you finish, lift it and take out the product.
- Needle plate. This is a metal plate directly under the needle, with a hole for its entry.
- Fabric conveyor. These are the teeth that are on the needle plate. With their help, matter moves in the direction you want. If you press the stitch forward, it moves in one direction; if you switch to reverse, the teeth move the fabric in the opposite direction. Always has two rows.
- Bobbin and lever. It is always located under the needle plate. This is a box in which a flat bobbin with a thread (bottom) is placed, which is wound by putting it on the pin of a bobbin-winder. There is also a lever with which the bobbin is inserted and removed.
Now that you've got the basics down, let's thread the machine and get it ready to go.
- Place the machine in a comfortable, stable place. She should stand in such a way that the needle is on the left side.
- Insert the needle, focusing on the flat side. There is such a place at the top of all needles and it coincides with the groove on the needle holder itself. Look at which side it is located on (either behind or on the side) and insert the needle accordingly. Tighten the screw so that it does not loosen.
- Place the reel up onto the reel seat (large pin).
- Remove the bobbin from the bobbin and place it on the short pin.
- From the main spool, pull the thread through the thread take-up and onto the bobbin, start the thread winding mechanism. Everything is clearly drawn there and there shouldn’t be any difficulties.
- Remove the bobbin of thread and place it in the bobbin case, secure it under the needle plate. Make sure that the tip sticks out of the bobbin, about 5-7 cm, we will need it later.
- Thread the main spool. This is very easy to do, just follow the directions on the sewing machine, the arrows and the pictures. If they have been erased from time to time or you still don’t understand anything, then usually the threading process is as follows: to the left towards the needle - down - up - down again - into a special lever (thread guide) - into the needle.
- Insert the thread into the needle, focusing on which side it was originally fed from, that is, without twisting or wrapping the needle. This may be an absurd clarification, but there are also such mistakes
- Pull both threads out from under the presser foot and guide them back behind the presser foot, placing them on the needle plate. For convenience, you can pry them off with something, for example, scissors.
- Connect the pedal to the machine
- Connect to the network
Let's practice making stitches
Now you will need a large piece of fabric. Cut it into many small ones and stuff your hand.
First you need to set the simplest stitch mode – straight. Scribble until you feel that the “typewriter” is listening to you.
Then learn to make turns, stitch at an angle, that is, turn so that there is an acute angle, then stitch next to the edge, trying to get the same seam width.
Adjust the thread tension depending on the thickness of the fabric. There is nothing to advise here; it only comes with practice and experience.
Once you are comfortable with a straight seam, try other types of stitches (zigzag, overlock and curly)
If you want to sew, then you always need to have these main things:
- Accessory box
- Cutting scissors
- Thread cutting scissors (small)
- Chalk or soap
- Centimeter
- Ruler
- Pins with caps and a cushion for them
- Safety pins, set
- Seam ripper
- Set of replacement needles
- Spare bobbin
- Oil for lubricating the machine
- Brush for sweeping away dust from fabric
Of course, this is the most basic set. In the process of practice, you will understand what you still lack and buy it in addition.
Proper operation and care of the machine
Cars, in general, are not very capricious equipment. But the more functional it is, the more expensive it is to break, since everything is tied not to ordinary mechanics, which will tolerate any errors, but to electronic boards. And, if you constantly get confused and press the wrong buttons, it may fail. Therefore, be careful.
In addition, always clean the machine from any remaining fabric dust and small threads.
If you do not use the machine for a long time, then store it in a box in a dry place. Moisture will rust and deteriorate internal parts.
There is no need to try to stitch fabric that the machine does not “take”, this can lead to breakage. Typically, modern models provide various modes, from silk to leather. Therefore, you should not try to sew thick fabric using the “silk” mode.
How often to lubricate the machine and how
There are special small holes in it to lubricate the machine. Place oil in them at least once every six months, or even more often if you notice that it begins to make more noise during operation than usual.
Choose good oil, preferably from the same company as the machine itself. But please note that not all models require such a procedure. Some modern machines do not provide lubrication at all and it will only harm them!
Therefore, before deciding to take such a step, check the information on the Internet about your car.
Safety precautions when working with a sewing machine
The most important rule is don’t put your toes under your paw! It can be very painful and scary, especially when the needle at full speed completely pierces the pad of the fingers and nail. Brrr... Be careful, this is still a technique.
Conclusion
We hope that our explanation was detailed and useful for you. This is a universal guide according to which you can use both regular models and mini sewing machines.
But, again, we remind you that the manual on how to use a sewing machine is just the first step at the beginning of a long journey.
A manual sewing machine takes up minimal space in your travel bag and is very easy to use. A hand-held portable sewing machine is designed for sewing various fabrics with a single-thread straight chain stitch in domestic and travel conditions.
A portable sewing machine is the best thing a lady can have in her purse when the hem of her skirt suddenly breaks. Performs up to 70% of all kinds of sewing operations efficiently (excluding stitching large volumes of fabric and complex operations).
A pocket sewing machine is a household essential that's also great for traveling.
The machine can be used to trim the edges of curtains or shorten trousers, etc.
Can work with any fabrics
Takes up little space and is compact in size
Simple and easy to use
Weight with packaging: 116 g
Packaging dimensions: 113 x 70 x 46 mm
Maximum total thickness of stitched fabrics: up to 2mm
Using a manual mini sewing machine, you can quickly and efficiently carry out minor repairs to garments, for example, sew up torn hems and sewing seams of dresses, skirts, men's shirts, bed linen, handkerchiefs and many other products. Can also be used to make hemmed seams on tall items, such as curtains. A mini manual sewing machine can also be used for decorative finishing of products with a chain stitch.
You can take a manual, portable sewing machine on the road or travel so that it can replace your needle and thread if necessary.
This purchase will be useful and necessary both for big sewing enthusiasts and for those who sew just because. 
The sewing machine is light, compact, and easy to use. With its help, you can repair and even sew things - to the delight of your friends and relatives with whom you will be visiting!
Machine stitching is aesthetically pleasing and neat - your item will look dignified and of high quality. 
Works with any fabric - from soft knitwear to several layers of denim. Use it to fix seams, hem clothes and adjust the length of curtains without removing them from the windows! Indispensable when traveling, on business trips, or at the dacha.
Equipment:
1. Sewing machine;
2. 2 spools of thread (+ for standard domestic spools);
3. 10 needles (X 100);
4. Threader;
5. box, instructions. 
By popular demand, video reviews and video instructions for using a manual mini sewing machine (mini stitcher) have been added.
Sewing machines can seem intimidatingly complicated to those who don't know how to use them. Whatever the case may be, don't let the fear of the unknown operations and skills required to use a sewing machine stop you from creating textile wonders! Use this step-by-step instruction to cover the mechanics, settings, and operation of your sewing machine so you can get started making things with your own hands.
Steps
Part 1
Learning the parts of a sewing machine-
Place the sewing machine on a stable table, work area, desk, or sewing machine stand in front of you.
Sit on a chair that is at an appropriate height relative to the table you are using. The sewing machine should be positioned so that its needle is on the left and the rest on the right, relative to you. You'll have to check a few settings first and become a little familiar with the sewing machine, so don't plug it in at this point. Insert the needle securely.
The needle has a flat side, so it can only be inserted one way: the flat side must be facing backwards. On the other side, there is a groove at the bottom of the needle, usually located opposite the flat side of the needle. This groove always faces the direction the thread passes (the thread passes through this groove as the needle stitches up and down the fabric). Insert the needle as described and tighten the screw holding it securely.
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Find the power button. It may sound stupid, but locating the power button is the most important step! It can be located in different places depending on the model of your sewing machine, but most often you will find it on the right side of the sewing machine.
Find the reel seat. This is the small plastic or metal stick that sticks out from the top of the sewing machine and is designed to hold the spool of thread.
Find the thread guide. The thread guide guides the thread from the spool mounted on the top of the machine to the bobbin winder. This is a geometric, metal section that sticks out on the top, left side of the sewing machine.
Find a bobbin winder. To the right of the reel seat is another, even smaller, metal or plastic pin, next to which there is a small horizontal wheel. This is a winder reel and its limiter. They work together (along with the bobbin and thread) and are designed to wind the thread onto your bobbin before you start sewing.
Look at the buttons that control the stitches. They can be in different places depending on the model of sewing machine you have, but they usually look like buttons with little pictures on them and are located on the front of the sewing machine. These buttons change the type of stitches you can use, the length of the stitches, as well as their direction (forward and backward). Check the instructions for your sewing machine model to find out what each button does.
Determine the location of the thread take-up. When you are ready to thread your sewing machine, you will begin to pull the thread from the spool at the top, through the thread guide, and then into the thread take-up. This is a lever (with two cut grooves) located on the front, left side of the sewing machine. Usually next to it you will see printed numbers and arrows, explaining to you how and in what order to thread the thread into the sewing machine.
Find the tension regulator. The tension regulator is a small wheel with numbers located next to the thread take-up. It controls the thread tension while sewing; if the tension is too high, the needle will bend to the right. If the tension is not sufficient, the thread will tangle on the back of the fabric you are sewing.
Find the needle clamp screw. This is a metal tool that holds the needle while sewing. It is located under the sleeve of the sewing machine and is shaped very similar to a large nail. It attaches to the right side of the needle.
Find the paw. This is the metal part located under the needle holder and looks like tiny skis. When you lower the foot, it holds the fabric in place and guides it as you sew.
Find the presser foot lever and practice lowering and raising the presser foot. It should be behind or to the right of the needle holder and needle. To try the lever, lower it down and lift it up.
Find the needle plate. The needle plate is the silver pad located directly below the needle. Very simple, right?
Find the transporter. The feed dog is a small metal guide that is located on the needle plate, under the foot, and guides the fabric as you sew. You can find the feed dog by seeing two rows of metal underneath the foot.
Locate the coil limiter and releaser. The spool is a small bobbin of thread that is located at the bottom of the sewing machine and supplies the second thread to the needle, which is needed to create stitches on the inside. Under the metal plate is the spool stop, and there you will also find a button or lever that releases the spool. You will need it to secure the spool before you start sewing.
Part 2
Setting up your sewing machine